Time in Japan

Sunday, January 22, 2017

Yamasa trip to Kyoto (Part 1)


One of the good points about Yamasa is that they regularly plan trips for students at really good prices.  I climbed Mt. Fuji on such a trip.

This weekend, I went to Kyoto with 4 other students and a teacher, along with a driver.  We went to Fushimi Inari Shrine, then to Otabe Kojo to learn to make Kyoto-style sweets.  It took about 2 and a half hours to get to Fushimi Inari Shrine from my dorm.

There was still snow on the ground.



Here's a shot of Kyoto before we got to the shrine.  My guess is that these women are tourists who have rented kimono for the day.


Fushimi Inari Shrine is tourist destination, and even in January, it's packed.  But it's also a functioning religious shrine.

Here is a large torii gate at the entrance (it's not the first one):

Torii gates represent the barrier between the mundane and the sacred.

In Japan, the two main religions are Shintoism, the native Japanese religion, and Buddhism, which was imported from Korea and China beginning in the sixth century AD.  The total number of Shintoists and Buddhists in Japan exceeds the total population by a lot because many Japanese are both.  There are some who are strictly only one or the other, but many are both, and often a Shinto shrine and a Buddhist temple will be situated together.  However, you can identify a shrine by the presence of  a torii gate.

Here are some miko, which are called "shrine maidens" in English.  Miko used to be more like female shamens, but now they mostly work the amulet sales counter and perform certain religious dances.



Inari shrines are the most common Shinto shrine in Japan.  In addition to registered shrines, there are lots of small roadside shrines, which may just be a small torii, and an alter with fox statues.

This is the stage for the religious dances.



Fushimi Inari Shrine is the head Inari Shrine.  Inari is the deity of harvest, as well as business, success in general and foxes.  Inari shrines are the most numerous type of Shinto shrine in Japan. They all have statues of foxes ( キツネ kitsune) , since foxes are messengers to Inari.



In Japanese folklore, foxes can be troublemakers, but they are not evil.  They can also change their shape to appear human.

A feature of Inari shrines is an abundance of red torii gates.  These are donated by individuals or companies.

At Fushimi Inari Shrine, there are tunnels of torii gates!


You can see old torii gates that have faded,next newer ones.


At one point, the tunnel divides into two, made up of smaller torii gates.  You go up on one side and come back on the other.







Here, you choose one of two stones.  Say a prayer and make a wish, then estimate the weight of the stone in front of you.  Now, try to lift the stone.  If it weighs less than you thought it would, your wish will come true.


 Here are some much smaller torii gates.


These are ena.  You buy one, write your wish on it, and leave it here.


Several more foxes.



The torii gates from the side.


A bamboo grove.


One of a pair of dragon statues.






This fox is holding a key. 


 Here is the shrine.  To pray is very simple.

  1. You'll have purified yourself by washing your hand and rinsing your mouth at a fountain near the entrance to the shrine grounds.
  2. Toss an offering into the box.  5 yen coins and 50 yen coins have holes in the middle, and are considered lucky offerings.  You offer as little or as much as you want or are able.  No tithing here.
  3. Ring the bell.  Swing the rope; don't pull it.
  4. Bow twice.
  5. Clap twice.
  6. With your hands held in prayer, express your gratitude or make a request silently.
  7. Bow one more time.  You're done. 

Some shrines have a different number of bows or claps.  But you won't incur the deity's wrath if you do it wrong.



If you've seen pictures from Nikko Toshougu (mine or anyone else's), you'll see a similarity in the carving style and colors used between the carvings there and here:


Information about the shrine:





Near the shrine are food stands and restaurants.  Ms. Suzuki and I had some Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki.  It has noodles in it, unlike the kind I usually make, which is Osaka style.


One last look at the main gate


 This fox is holding some rice or barley:






Another fox with rice or barley.



This one has nothing.


 

Stay tuned for part 2!

3 comments:

Unknown said...

What is okonomiyaki?

Me said...

Okonomiyaki is a savory pancake-like dish. It's often called "Japanese pizza".

"Okonomi" = "as you like" and "yaki" = "grilled".

The batter has cabbage in it, and in an okonomiyaki shop the customer picks out the topping they want, then it's cooked on a flat griddle in front of the customer. It's grilled for a bit, then covered to steam/bake a bit. The customer gets a small metal spatula to cut it into bite-sized pieces.

The topping options include things like meat, shrimp, octopus, squid, etc. I've seen what looks like bacon as a topping, but I think it's really thin-sliced pork belly.

In Hiroshima, they add noodles to it, too.

Condiments include mayonnaise, okonomiyaki sauce (like thick soy or Worchestershire sauce), bonito flakes, seaweed flakes, chopped green onion and/or sliced pickled ginger.

There are lots of recipes on the internet. When I make it, I start by cooking bacon on the griddle, adding the batter (flour, water, egg, potato starch, dashi powder and shredded cabbage) on top of that, then adding the toppings (usually just shrimp). Proper okonomiyaki uses grated yamaimo (a kind of real yam), but I use potato starch instead, since yamaimo is hard to find. Cook on both sides, then cover for a bit until done.

Add your condiments of choice and enjoy!

It reheats for lunch nicely, too.

Unknown said...

My daughter loves foxes, and her online "handle" is Kitsune.